HENNA RECIPE
100% Organic, Safe & Chemical Free
Mixing your own henna is super easy, fun and aromatic. Henna is perishable (it only last a few days at room temperature) so you'll always get the best results if you DIY. Did you know, ready made cones on store shelf, asian stalls or coming from overseas contains a dangerous chemical called PPD? Manufacturers who produce ready made cones create their paste with hair dye which is highly dangerous as it can scare your skin life-long. Unfortunately, most Asian community prefer using ready made cones as it stains instantly and those who frequently use it may not have had side effects but it always best to be safe.
There are ways to know whether you're buying chemical based henna:
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Colourful packaging
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Bad smell
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Black paste
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When applied you may feel a slight burning sensation or itching/ redness
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Stains instantly (natural henna takes 2-3 days to stain from orange to dark brown)
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The stain will flake/ peel off
Below is my tried-and-true simple recipe. It's the same recipe I use for my clients and achieve amazing results by following the aftercare guide thoroughly.
SMALL BATCH
25g Henna Powder
2 tsp Essential Oil
2 tsp Sugar
Water to consistency
LARGE BATCH
100g Henna Powder
30ml Essential Oil
40g Sugar
Water to consistency
STEP 1:
In a bowl add 25g of henna powder along with 2 tsp of sugar (brown or white). I usually like to add in the dry ingredients first and then follow with the wet ingredients. Add 2 tsp of essential oil (if you have sensitive skin use Lavender only) and then add minimal water at a time as you're mixing it.
At this point you don't need to create a smooth paste as you'll need to let the paste sit for minimum 6-8 hours (if you use water) or 24 hours (if you used lemon juice) for dye release. The paste needs to be of a mash potato consistency.
STEP 2:
There may be lumps but don't worry, after the dye release this will go away. Cover with cling film and leave aside at room temperature or in a warm place for dye release. I usually place my bowl on a radiation on low-medium heat or in a conservatory.
STEP 3:
After dye release - to check if your paste has released dye, scrape off the top layer and the inner layer should appear slightly lighter. You can always do a 5-10 minutes patch test on the tip of your finger. If the paste appears bright orange you have achieved your dye release. If the stain appears pale orange, allow the paste to sit for another few hours.
STEP 4:
At this point the sugar would have melted nicely and may look soft. Add small amount of water at a time to create a smooth paste to your desired consistency. Be careful not to add too much water otherwise it may turn out to be runny. If you accidently added too much water, add henna powder to fix the consistency. You want to achieve a consistency of a toothpaste.
Be vary not to make your paste too runny during hot season as the paste will become even more watery and your design will not hold. I prefer to keep it slightly thick/dry.
STEP 5:
Once your paste is ready, grab a large carrot bag and you have two choices:-
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You can either pour your paste straight into the carrot bag. I usually do this as I don't have any blockage or lumps issue but if you're unsure, I'd recommend following the second method.
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You will need tights that you're happy to get rid off. Cut the tights at the calf or knees area and place it inside of the carrot bag. (use a cup to hold it the bag up). Make sure you wrap extra material around the cup. Pour your paste into the tights and twist the top part of the tights and wrap it around your hand - holding the paste down with your other hand. The idea is to pull and let the paste squeeze out of the tights into the carrot bag, so as your pulling be sure to hold the carrot bag as well. You will need a lot of strength to do this as the paste needs to squeeze through the tiny holes of the tights into the carrot bag.
After a good amount of struggle, once your paste is in the carrot bag tie a knot or use a rubber band. You can freeze your paste and use it later or pop it straight into cones. I like to fill small amount at a time and weigh each cone around 10g - 15g so that it's even in size.
STEP 6:
When you have filled in your cones, take one and try it out. I like to squeeze a good amount to check the flow of my paste first. Draw a cute design and follow the aftercare guide thoroughly to see what amazing stain results you're able to achieve.
Aftercare Guide
STEP 1:
Before application, make sure your skin is free from hand lotion or oil. Moisturiser acts as a barrier between your skin and henna which will result in a much weaker looking stain.
STEP 2:
After application, once your paste has completely dried you will then need to seal your henna. To do so, mix 1 whole lemon or lime juice (fresh or shop bought) into a small bowl with 1 tbsp of sugar. Mix it thoroughly until the sugar has dissolved.
Grab a cotton wool or tissue paper and soak it in the mixture, squeeze out the excess but leave a little so it still feels slightly wet. Gently, dab over the paste (as many times as you like), let it dry and it should end up looking sheen.
STEP 3:
Try not to move your hands too much once the mixture has dried. Your skin will tighten due to the sugar in the mixture, this will enable it to remain intact to your skin for as long as possible, and if you move your hands too much the design will crack and fall off. The aim is to leave the paste on for as long as possible.
You can cover your hands with either tissue paper and tape or mefix tape (available on Amazon and eBay), if you plan on sleeping with your henna overnight. But I wouldn't recommend this during hot season as sweating/ heat can re-activate your henna resulting in a smudged design.
DO NOT wear gloves or cover your hands with plastic bag. Heat can re-active your henna and it will smudge your design. I like to apply the lemon and sugar sealant and leave it at that. Yes, small bits of henna will fall of here and there but that's okay. The stain will still come through, I promise.
For better results, leave your henna on for minimum 6-10 hours. The longer you leave your henna, the better the stain results.
STEP 4:
DO NOT WASH OFF YOUR PASTE.
To remove the paste, if you applied lemon and sugar sealant use a butterknife to scrape off the paste or your nails. It may be difficult due to the stickiness, so you can gently apply a nice layer of coconut oil (or any natural oil) and massage it into your paste to relax the mixture. Scrap it off and wipe away any excess with tissue.
If you've used mefix tape, simply remove the tape and any left over paste. Apply coconut oil if you like or leave it as it is.
It's very important not to wash off your paste as this will only weaken the stain further. Even though your stain will develop into a nice dark brown shade, it won't last as long. Once the paste has been removed completely, you will then need to let your stain to oxides for the next 48 hours.
STEP 5:
Avoid washing your hands in the next 12-24 hours as it will take between 36-48 hours for your stain to fully develop. Depending on your body heat (henna likes warmth) it may take 4 days max. If so, you will need to take extra care meaning no washing, rubbing or scrubbing. You can cover it with gloves or cling film in the shower to protect it from getting wet.
Your stain will appear bright orange at first and during the course of development it will gradually change to dark brown/ maroon or even black. After 48 hours you can start washing your hands as normal but remember, the more you wash and scrub the quicker your henna will fade. Regularly apply coconut oil or any natural balms to help maintain the stain for as long as possible. Henna can last up to 2 weeks depending on how rich your stain is and how well its looked after.